Ancho Braised Short Ribs

Ah, fall—my favorite season. Neither scorching nor freezing; the time for brisk walks, hot tea, heavy books and stylish clothes (boots, jackets, sweaters, scarves, swoon). Is there anyone among us who doesn’t get the seasonal urge to eat hearty, rich foods, storing calories for the hard winter ahead? I always equate this time of year with slow-cooked, complex-flavored meals: stews, roasts, fortifying soups and such. There is something about the combination of warmth and divine smells emanating from the kitchen that announces, “Fall is here.” If I lived somewhere with changing leaves and seasons, I might not feel so inclined to find fall in the kitchen, but, hey, take advantage of my geographical destiny.
Today’s recipe is Ancho-Braised Short Ribs, from a Gourmet** recipe adapted from chef Robert Del Grande’s dish. Keep in mind that there are two kinds of cuts called “short ribs.” The Korean-style are cross-cut flat, with multiple rib bones per piece of meat; what we’re using here are thick cut, with one bone running through the whole thick piece. I first made this dish during the blazing heat of August, so I cooked it in a slow cooker (Crock Pot) to keep the ambient temperature down. The recipe includes notes based on how you plan to cook yours.

Ancho-Braised Short Ribs
Serves Four

There are a few ways you can prepare this recipe: In a braising/roasting pan which is safe for both cooktops and ovens; in a slow cooker; or in a frying pan (for stovetop work) and roaster (for oven work).

4 dried ancho chiles (or Californias for a slightly “brighter” taste), stems and seeds removed
2 c. boiling water
1 medium onion, quartered
3 garlic cloves, ends trimmed
Juice of one lime (about 2 T.)
3 T. maple syrup
2 T. canned chiles in adobo ( I freeze this since I can’t finish even the tiniest can without tears and tragedy ensuing. It freezes soft enough that you don’t really need to thaw; just chip out what you need)
2 T. dried coffee, or 1⁄2 cup strong coffee
1 T. cocoa
1 T. vegetable oil
Salt and freshly cracked pepper
3-ish pounds of short ribs (original recipe calls for 6 pounds, but you will find that I am a saucy gal and like a lower meat-to-sauce ratio)


Soak dried chiles in boiling-hot water until softened, about 20 minutes; remove from liquid to drain. Taste soaking liquid: It will be a little bitter, but if unpleasant-tasting, discard it; otherwise, reserve for later. Transfer ancho chiles to a blender and purée with onion, garlic, chipotles with sauce, maple syrup, lime juice, coffee crystals or coffee, cocoa and 1 teaspoon salt. Add approximately 1 cup of the chile-soaking liquid or warm water, enough to loosen the puree but not make it very thin. You want it about ketchup-consistency. Set aside while browning ribs.

Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet (or braising pot, is using) over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown ribs in batches, turning occasionally, about 1 minute per side until well-browned. Transfer as browned to roasting pan or slow cooker pot (if using). Three pounds of ribs should take up a single layer in most large crocks/pans.

Pour the chile sauce over the ribs. The sauce should come about halfway up the ribs. Cover roasting pan tightly with foil and braise ribs in middle of oven at 350 degrees until very tender, 3 to 3 1/2 hours. If using a slow cooker, cook on high for the same 3 to 3 1/2 hours, or set it on low and (gulp) leave the house. Using the low setting, ribs will be cooked in 6 to 9 hours but not overdone
Served freshly made, the sauce will be quite thin from the fat that melted off the ribs. If this is fine with you, it will not affect the taste. If you prefer, you can skim the fat from the juices, then serve with ribs.
In the photo above, I served these with a maple polenta and steamed carrots with honey butter.

Note: You can make these up to 2 days ahead, and will find that the flavor deepens as it sits. Cool, uncovered, then chill, covered. Remove any solidified fat before reheating.

**I take yet another moment to sob for the closing of my beloved Gourmet. I credit that magazine with sparking my love of cooking, and never could have envisioned a day when it wasn't in my life.